This is my third attempt at writing on this topic. I’ve been working on this project for years, and while there were two saved drafts tucked away, I’ve never actually published anything on it.
But this week, it’s been one of the big jobs I’ve spent energy on. So I’m finally going to let you all in on the little secret that’s below your feet when you walk around my garden.
I’m going to tell you about my garden paths.
Bye bye black plastic
My garden sits on what was once a kikuyu grass-infested cow paddock. When I began developing it, I laid a lot of black plastic. Firstly for killing off the kikuyu, and then for protecting the paths from re-infestation.
The black plastic genuinely is the only way to kill off the kikuyu without poisons. It takes time—way more time than you’d think—but it does work.
However, after years of UV exposure and dog claws trotting around the place, the plastic had seriously deteriorated. The paths had started growing weeds in the holes. Walking around on a rainy day was like walking on a slip-and-slide.
And with a giant pile of mulch that needed moving, a plan began to form.
Slowly, I began lifting that plastic, re-shaping the paths, and replacing it with mulch. But it also seemed like a missed opportunity.
I wondered if I might be able to use my paths to help improve my gardens in some additional way.
Garden layout
The paths of my garden run in two directions, in a grid. In one direction (roughly east to west), they run along the contour. In the other direction (north-south), they go up/down the contour.

For the paths that run along the contour, I began playing with a concept called ‘vertical mulching’.

Diagram from ‘The drought resilient farm‘ by Dale Strickler.
I dug trenches down the middle of the contour paths, and then filled them with mulch. They’re not as deep as this diagram would suggest—mine are about the width and depth of my digging spade.
Theoretically, rain would travel down the slope, and get caught in one of these trenches. The mulch would then hold the moisture for longer than usual, and make it available to the beds above and below it.
I started with an experimental trench, and after a few months, I thought I was seeing some positive results. So I dug more. Slowly, the mulched paths started improving the soils in the garden beds around them.
Then I ran out of mulch.
Reinvigoration
For the most part, my garden has been in this half-built state for years now. Some paths have trenches, and have been mulched. Some paths are bare, becoming repositories for weeds which need regularly pulling back out.
I’d be lying if I said it was planned, but this has produced the opportunity to compare approaches. As it turns out, there does seems to be a pretty big difference between the places with trenches and mulch, and those without.
As well as additional moisture around the trenched paths, the mulch seems to have worked to increase my worm population. Mycelial networks are developing too. I’m pretty sure I found some magic mushrooms growing in one of my paths a few weeks ago.

The state of the soil after a plastic path was lifted.
Rather than being dead places as they were under the plastic, my paths are alive now.
The garden as a whole is becoming an ecosystem that continues even in the bits you’re formally ‘allowed’ to walk on.
Regular maintenance
Of course, part of the reason those paths are teeming with life is because the mulch is actively breaking down, and has been for a couple of years now.
Recently, my father lent us his trailer. And last Monday after dropping off a load of accumulated crap at the scrappy, we picked up 2 cubic meters of mulch from the landscape supplier.
We got it home, and positioned it near the garden. Then I got to work.



I cleared and dug three trenches. And I shifted all that mulch, in one day.
Once I finished with the first row, I lifted some of the last plastic which had completed its purpose and mulched that. Then I began re-surfacing the oldest, barest paths. I kept going until the trailer was empty.
We’ve still got another load for the scrap man (finally, those fridges will be out of my life!), which means I have every intention of getting another couple of cubes of mulch to maybe even finish the entire garden. I reckon a third cube might be needed to fully tidy it up, but we’ll wait and see.
There’s still work to be done, but I’m happy with where we are now. My wee garden is really starting to come alive, thanks in large part to the paths.
That’s a brilliant idea!
Interesting and makes good sense. I feel it would work in situations where soil is friable, able to allow the water movement. Not something for sandy or clay soils,though over time maybe it would improve them too
I often say the soil sold us this property, so it’s true we are blessed with an ideal starting point. I think it’d probably be more helpful for sandy soils that need to retain moisture than clay soils, but clay soils would benefit just as much in the longer term.
so exciting to come across a neat idea I’ve never heard of before! (And I reckon it would work great on sand – easy to dig the trenches too!)
As long as they’re moist enough that they don’t keep collapsing back in! I’d (attempt to) dig them deeper if I were on sand, but here we’re hitting hard clay and it becomes much harder going after a while!
This is great! Im on sand here on the Dunedin coast, which has excess water in the winter, dry summer (kind of..) and Im thinking this would help with both no? Get the water away in quicker in winter? Or maybe it would hold it longer.. like I guess mulch is designed to do ahha.. I’ll give it a crack and let you know. Thanks Kat!
Worth a shot. Maybe try in one spot and see what happens? I didn’t dive into this head-first—I started with one and decided if I wanted to keep going from there.
To every question(almost) the answer is “Compost” and now “Mulch”. This is a variation on a French drain / field drain. “And I love it”, Simon Cowell of BGT. One further variation / dare I say improvement for the deeper trenches, would be to put very coarse scoria / gravel / small rocks / old fridges – kidding – in the bottom of the trench about 150 mm deep to get oxygen to the bottom layers of mulch. With the deeper trenches, the distance from the top to the bottom may be too much and make the lower levels anearobic / stinky. And if you were to link the trenches, any really, really excessive water could escape the trench. Thanks for sharing this brilliant idea, Kat.